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FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

PRICING

 

Q: How much does your stained glass cost?

A: Every piece is custom made for each client, and prices vary from peice to peice.  Price is determined by the complexity of the design, the panel size, number of pieces of glass, and the options selected.  The range for a set of wings is generally between  $1700 and $3000 plus shipping and handling.

Q: Why is your work so expensive?

A:  Stained glass is labor intensive art, and materials are very expensive.  I use technology where I can to help speed up the process and keep the prices down.  ​​​

Q: Am I required to agree to the Terms and Conditions?

A: Yes.  Every order requires clients to accept the Terms and Conditions (available HERE) and to review the Shipping page (available HERE). 

DESIGN

Q: Should I personalize my piece with a callsign, rank, or last name?

A:  This is a personal choice, but all three have been done in the past.   The recommended 12 character limit helps guide people towards a decision.

Q: Can I personalize my piece with more than 12 characters?

A: Possibly.  Some designs will accommodate longer names, and some letters take less space than others.  Each letter requires between 2 and 10 pieces of glass.  Long names may cost more.

Q:  What if I want other colors or a different design than what is shown in the Design Guide?

A:  NO PROBLEM!  The commission request and Design Guide are just starting points.  I'm happy to work with you on anything you want, but additional design fees may apply.  These fees are generally waived if I can use the design again in the future for another client. 

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Q: I don't see my warfare insignia in your gallery.  Can you make other insignias?

A: Of course!  I'm always looking to expand into other communities and even other services.  There's no charge to create a new insignia design if there's a reasonable chance that I can make another one in the future.

Q:  Why is the frame made from two laminated boards and not a single piece of wood?

A:  Solid wood reacts to changes in humidity, and can warp, twist, and bow.  This movement can put pressure on the glass and possibly cause a crack.  By laminating two boards together the wood becomes more dynamically stable, which reduces the risk of damage. 

DELIVERY AND TIMELINES

Q: What is the turn around time for my commission?

A: Turn around time is dependent upon how many commissions are already in the queue, and can range from one month to a year or more.  Past clients will attest that it's worth the wait!

Q: How long would a rush order take to arrive?

A:  The fastest I can do a piece and get it to you is two-three weeks.  The timing, however, is subject to other factors such as existing pieces in progress and other rush orders in line.  Rush orders require an additional fee.

Q: What if I move before receiving my glass?

A: No problem.  I'm no stranger to military moves, and I always verify your shipping address before sending it out.

Q:  I'm an airline pilot, can you time shipping around my trip schedule?

A: Absolutely!  Before I ship I will verify that you or someone else will be available to sign for it.

Q: How many pieces do you make a year?

A: I generally schedule one piece per month for a total of 12 a year. 

CARE AND INSTALLATION

Q: How do I hang and care for my piece?

A:  Every piece ships with a four page "About Your Glass" document.  A copy of the document can be downloaded HERE.

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Q: Where should I hang my glass?

A: Hang stained glass in front of a window whenever possible.  Natural light is better at capturing the vibrancy and texture of the glass.  Select a window with the most direct sunlight (generally a south or west facing window).

Q:  Can I hang my stained glass outside?

A:  No.  The copper foil method used to make the wings does not weather well in the elements.  If you need a piece to go outside or serve as an exterior window it will need to be made with lead came.  I am happy to discuss this further if you're interested..

DAMAGE AND REPAIR

Q:  Why don't you guarantee agains breakage during shipping?

A:  Although my crating method minimizes the risk of breakage,  the risk is never zero.  My work contains hundreds of individual pieces of glass, some of which are very small and are practically impossible to replace without rebuilding the entire panel.  Returning a piece to be repaired doubles the risk of breakage during shipping to and from my studio.  

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Q:  I think I have a crack in a piece of glass, but I'm not sure.  How do I tell?

A:   Art glass is largely handmade and as such has a lot of beautiful imperfections including creases and grooves that can look like cracks.  A true crack will go through the entire thickness of the glass and will look just like a crack in a car windshield.  You may not be able to feel the crack.  If the glass is cracked, the copper foil and lead solder will continue to hold the glass firmly in place.

Q: I have a broken piece of glass in my panel and I want to have it replaced.  What do I do?

A:  There are stained glass artists everywhere.  Online forums are a great resource to find artisans who can do local repair work, which will help avoid the risk of damage during shipping.  One of the many challenges in repairing stained glass is matching the glass.  I keep records of the glass used in each piece and can provide that information upon request. 

Q: Are there other options for cracked glass that don't require replacing the glass?

A: Yes.  A Dutch weld is something that any competent stained glass artist can do, which will hide the crack behind a bead of lead solder.  This is done by laying adhesive copper foil over the crack and then soldering it into the connecting solder lines.  This is my preferred fix for cracks on very narrow or small pieces, but can be done on almost any crack regardless of size as long as the piece is still firmly in place.  Since backgrounds are usually symmetrical, other Dutch welds can be added to unbroken pieces to  balance the composition.

Q: Is my frame solid hardwood or just veneered, and can it be refinished?

A:  All of my frames are solid hardwood, which can be easily repaired or refinished by any seasoned woodworker.  Special care should be taken to support the glass when removing the glass from the frame.  The frame is integral to the piece's structural rigidity.

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Q: Can I replace the light?

A: Yes.  The light is a commercial off the shelf kit that can be replaced.

Q: Can I add a light to my glass if I didn't select the option and I've already received my glass?

A:  Sort of.  I hand cut all of the frame profiles, and use a different profile for pieces with and without a back light.  The molding for backlit pieces is harder to cut and includes insets to receive the light and back panel.  The strip light may be visible if added to a non-backlit frame molding.  This may be an issue for some clients.

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